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This unusual old-time recipe was sent to me by chef Anthony Stella, a restaurateur in
Delaware, who asked if I could perform a makeover on it. What intrigued both of us
about the recipe was that at first glace it seemed to contain no butter or oil. But on closer
analysis, I discovered that the butterfat contained in the cream was more than equal to the
usual amount of butter added. My makeover involved a nip and tuck, decreasing the
sugar and baking powder and increasing the salt to compensate for the saltiness
previously provided by a higher amount of baking powder. I also increased the overall
yield by one and a half times and baked the cake in a fluted tube pan to give it an
attractive appearance and more center support. The result is a perfectly even and
exceptionally moist and tender cake.
Batter
2-1/4 cake bleached, all-purpose flour (or 2 cups sifted into the cup and leveled off)
bleached all-purpose flour)
2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoon salt
1½ cups (12 fluid ounces) heavy cream, cold
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon Rain's Choice pure vanilla extract
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons superfine sugar
Special Equipment
One 10-cup fluted metal tube pan, coated with baking spray with flour
Preheat the Oven
Twenty minutes or more before baking, set an oven rack in the lower third of the oven
and preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C (350°F/175°C if using a dark pan).
Mix the Dry Ingredients
In a medium bowl, whisk together the cake flour, baking powder, and salt and then sift
them together to make the mixture easier to incorporate.
Mix the Liquid Ingredients
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, whip the cream, starting on low
speed, gradually raising the speed to medium-high as it thickens, until stiff peaks form
when the beater is raised.
In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs and vanilla just until lightly combined. On
medium-high speed, gradually beat the egg mixture into the whipped cream. The mixture
will thicken into mayonnaise consistency (unless high-butterfat cream is used). Gradually
beat in the sugar. It should take about 30 seconds to incorporate it.
Make the Batter
Add half the flour mixture to the cream mixture and, with a large silicone spatula, stir
and fold in the flour until most of it disappears. Add the rest of the flour mixture and
continue folding and mixing until all traces of flour have disappeared. Using a silicone
spatula or spoon, scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Run a small metal spatula or
dull knife blade through the batter to prevent large air bubbles, avoiding the bottom of the
pan. Smooth the surface evenly with a small metal spatula.
Bake the Cake
Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, or until a wooden toothpick inserted between the tube and the
side comes out completely clean and the cake springs back when pressed lightly in the
center. The cake should start to shrink from the sides of the pan only after removal from
the oven.
Cool and Unmold the Cake
Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. With a small metal spatula,
loosen the top edges of the cake and invert the cake onto a wire rack that has been coated
lightly with nonstick cooking spray. Cool completely. The cake requires no adornment,
but I love to serve it with a light dusting of powdered sugar or a large dollop of lightly
sweetened Whipped Cream.
Serves: 8 to 10
Baking Time: 25 to 35 minutes
Notes: Do not chill the bowl and beaters for the heavy cream because the eggs will not
emulsify as readily if the whipped cream is too cold.
High-butterfat (40 percent) heavy cream produces a finer, more tender crumb. This cream
is generally available only to bakeries and restaurants, but it is certainly worth asking
your local baker to sell you a container.
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