Chef in Residence - David Lebovitz

David and I have known each other since his early days as a pastry chef at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, CA where he created culinary magic for 13 years. David was named one of the top 5 pastry chefs in the San Francisco Bay Area by the San Francisco Chronicle, a great honor in a city with incredible chefs and high consumer expectations. And as a baker and dessert specialist, David loves vanilla! In a recent conversation he offered some suggestions for us vanilla aficionados, based his use of vanilla in his cooking and baking.

" I would say that as a pastry chef and baker, I use vanilla in practically everything I make. I use vanilla beans to infuse custards with a deep vanilla scent, and I add vanilla extract to round out flavors. Although many pastry chefs often use just the vanilla bean, adding a small amount of additional extract will give you a much fuller vanilla flavor. Now you can get ground vanilla beans and seeds; I love the look of seeing ground vanilla in pound cakes, ice creams, and sauces.

"I mostly use Bourbon or Mexican beans and extracts. Although Tahitian is fine, I prefer the bold flavor of the bourbon beans, which to me, provides the strongest and truest vanilla flavor. I can't imagine what my life would be like without vanilla!"

As a way to share some of his amazing creations with those of us who always save room for dessert and love to prepare them, David wrote, Room For Dessert (HarperCollins, 1999) and co-authored The Baker's Dozen Cookbook (Morrow, 2001). His next book will be released in the fall of 2003.

David has shared recipes with me for years. I’m posting some of my favorites for you to enjoy, but I highly recommend that you visit David’s site at www.davidlebovitz.com for more wonderful recipes as well as culinary information and class and tour schedules. And be sure to check out the excellent article on David in the October, 2001 issue of Food and Wine Magazine.

Apricot and Vanilla Bean Soufflés with Crème Anglaise

Four individual soufflés

These soufflés really highlight the intensity of dried apricots, which are thankfully available all-year. Be sure the serve them with crème anglaise, which compliments the tangy apricots perfectly.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup milk
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• pinch of salt
• 3 large egg yolks

• 2 ounces dried apricots from California (not Turkish)
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split
• 1 large egg yolk
• 3 tablespoons + 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 4 large egg whites, at room temperature

For the crème anglaise, heat the milk, sugar and salt in a saucepan. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the milk. Once warm, remove from heat, cover and let stand 15 minutes.

Prepare an ice bath by setting a metal bowl in another bowl that has been partially filled with ice.

In a separate bowl, lightly whisk the egg yolks, then gradually add some of the warmed milk, whisking constantly. Stir the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan.

Cook over low to moderate heat, stirring constantly with a heat proof spatula until the mixture thickens enough to coat the spatula. Immediately strain the custard into the bowl set over ice, removing the vanilla bean. Stir until cool, then cover and refrigerate until ready to use. (Crème anglaise will keep in the refrigerator up to 3 days).

For the soufflés, heat the apricots in a small saucepan with the wine, and vanilla bean until the liquid begins to boil. Reduce heat and simmer 7 minutes. Remove from heat, cover the pan, and let stand 45 minutes until the apricots are tender.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Butter 4 ramekins or oven proof custard cups.

Remove the vanilla bean, then puree the cooked apricots (and any liquid remaining), the egg yolk and 3 tablespoons granulated sugar in a food processor. Transfer into a medium-sized bowl and stir in the vanilla extract.

In a clean metal bowl, begin whipping the egg whites until they form soft, drooping peaks.

Gradually whip in the 3 tablespoons of sugar and continue whipping until the meringue forms stiff, but wet peaks. Beat one-quarter of the meringue into the apricot puree, then gently fold in the remaining meringue.

Heap the soufflé mixture into the ramekins. Sprinkle the tops with additional granulated sugar. Set the soufflés on a baking sheet and bake in the upper part of the oven for 9 minutes until the tops are brown. Serve immediately, with a pitcher of cold crème anglaise.

If you’ve never had fresh homemade marshmallows, here’s your chance. You’ll never want the packaged kind again! David says, "Marshmallows are a favorite American confection that rely on the scent of vanilla for their terrific flavor."

Marshmallows

(makes one baking sheet)

• 2 envelopes powdered gelatin
• 1/2 cup + 1/3 cup cold water
• 1 cup sugar
• 1/3 cup light corn syrup
• 4 egg whites
• pinch of salt
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Instructions:

In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the 1/2 cup of cold water to dissolve and soften.

In a saucepan fitted with a candy thermometer, mix the sugar and corn syrup with 1/3 cup of water. Place over medium-to-high heat.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, pour in the egg whites and beat on low speed until frothy. Add the pinch of salt.

When the syrup reaches between 210 and 220 degrees, increase the speed of the mixer and beat the whites until they are thick and fluffy (do not overbeat).

When the syrup reaches 245 degrees, while the mixer is whipping, pour the syrup into the whites. Pour so that the syrup does not fall on the whip, otherwise much of the syrup will splatter onto the sides of the bowl, not into the egg whites.

Scrape the gelatin and water into the pan that you used for the syrup and swirl it to dissolve (it should be hot enough from the syrup to dissolve it). Pour the liquified gelatin into the whites as they are whipping. Add the vanilla and continue to whip for 5 minutes.

Dust a baking sheet evenly and completely with cornstarch (I use a sifter for best results). Use a spatula to spread the marshmallows in an even layer on the pan. Allow to dry for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight, uncovered.

Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut the marshmallows into pieces and toss in the powdered sugar and cornstarch mixture. Put the marshmallows in a colander or strainer and shake off the excess cornstarch mixture. (If they are too sticky, spray the knife with cooking spray, or dip it in hot water.)

Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

In addition to his work at Chez Panisse, David was also the pastry chef at Bruce Cost's critically acclaimed Monsoon restaurant in San Francisco. The following two recipes are exotic renditions of favorite comfort foods, developed during his time working at Monsoon. Tapioca Pudding and Palm Sugar Custard are an elegant completion to a Latin, Asian, or Pacific Island meal, a gourmet treat for a convalescing friend, or a wonderfully soothing fireside delicacy on a rainy night.

PALM SUGAR CUSTARD

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1/2 cup coconut milk
• 6 egg yolks
• 1/2 cup palm sugar, melted*
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped

Warm cream, coconut milk and vanilla bean over medium heat. Let vanilla steep for about an hour.

Lightly whisk egg yolks, then slowly add in warm cream, whisking constantly till well blended. Stir in the warm palm sugar. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer.

Pour into 6 1/2- cup ramekins or custard cups. Bake in a water bath, covered, about 45 minutes at 350 degrees, until just beginning to set, but still jiggley in the center.

Cool to room temperature and serve.

Makes 6 servings.

*Palm sugar, or coconut sugar, is available from Asian food markets. It is the boiled- down sap of palm trees, similar to our maple syrup. It is usually firm or grainy when purchased, but when warmed, it becomes a delicious syrup.

TAPIOCA PUDDING

Ingredients:

• 2/3 cup tapioca, small pearl
• 3 1/2 cups coconut milk
• 2/3 cup sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 bourbon vanilla bean, split and scraped
• 1 egg, separated
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Put all ingredients in a heavy saucepan. Cook over low heat 15-20 minutes, stirring (be sure to get to the bottom of the pan to prevent scorching). When pearls are slightly translucent, remove pan from heat. Let cool slightly.

Whisk in egg yolk. Cool completely. When cool, beat egg white until stiff and fold in. Remove vanilla bean and spoon tapioca into bowls. Garnish with fresh tropical fruits and grated coconut, if desired.

Makes 6-8 servings.